Tony Rowen enjoys a fine dining experience in the medieval grandeur of the Fawsley Hall Hotel near Daventry
THE county of Northamptonshire has numerous royal associations – think Fotheringhay, Rockingham Forest and Althorp for starters – and then add into the mix Fawsley Hall, where Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I, as well as other monarchs, have been entertained.
The Great Hall at Fawsley was commissioned by Sir Edmund Knightley in 1537 with Georgian and Victorian wings being added later on, while Capability Brown landscaped the formal gardens and surrounding 2,000 acres of parkland in the 1760s.
Today, the Grade I-listed Fawsley Hall is an award-winning country house hotel and a member of the HandPicked Hotel group that boasts 4 AA Red Stars (only given to the very best hotels in the country) that effortlessly combines its historical past with 21st Century luxury and the requirements of modern-day visitors.
The purpose of my visit was not to dwell on the past history and traditions of Fawsley Hall but to enjoy the 2 AA Rosette Cedar Restaurant and the culinary delights of Head Chef Richard Walker. First stop, however, was the Tudor Bar for a pre-dinner aperitif. The bar is located on the ground floor of the original west wing and was the brew house for the hall, but now serving a wide range of drinks from champagne and cocktails to beers, shorts and soft drinks,
It’s a short walk from the Tudor Bar to the Cedar Restaurant, with its stone walls, beamed ceiling, stone fireplaces, tapestries, patterned carpets and floor-to-ceiling windows, giving views of the gardens and parkland. With a capacity for 72 diners, the layout of the restaurant affords an intimate space with alcove areas and a mixture round and square tables and arrowhead leather chairs.
Food and Beverage Manager Allan Coates has been in charge of the restaurant for three and a half years and is supported by friendly, smartly dressed waiting staff.
On arrival at my table I was immediately offered a bottle of water and breads, while I studied the menu. Diners have a choice of an a la carte or the Table D’Hote (three courses that change daily for £39 per person) menus. On offer on the evening of my visit were a choice of five starters – soup, fishcake, ham hock, Mediterranean vegetable antipasti or goats cheese beignet; five mains – chicken, sea bass, beef, butternut squash risotto or puff pastry box with grilled Provencale vegetables; to be followed by a selection of desserts. There is also an extensive wine list.
Decisions, decisions – should it be chicken or beef?
I chose the carrot and ginger soup with herb oil for starters, followed by sea bass with grilled new potatoes, leek fondant, stem broccoli, radishes and citrus cream.
The soup was flavoursome and just the right temperature, while my main course was a delight to the eye as it was placed in front of me – a sumptuous fillet of sea bass sitting atop the potatoes and leek fondant, immaculately arranged on the plate. It tasted even better than it looked! I rarely eat desserts and could not be tempted but was advised I was missing a treat by declining the flaky pear and almond tart served with a mound of clotted cream.
On the evidence of the number of fellow diners on my visit it is apparent that Richard Walker’s reputation is not only a hit with judges in competitions but with people who enjoy superbly cooked and presented food in luxurious surroundings served by an efficient waiting staff.
Oh, I am reliably informed that traditional Sunday lunches (served from 12.30pm to 2.30pm, two courses £22 per person, three courses £27 per person) and afternoon teas at Fawsley Hall are very popular.
Richard Walker has been Head Chef at Fawsley Hall Hotel for four years and in that time has twice been named as the Carlsberg Northamptonshire Chef of the Year for his culinary expertise in the kitchens of the hotel’s Cedar Restaurant.
It could be argued that it is only the rules of the competition that has prevented him from completing a hat-trick of titles as the winner is not eligible to take part in the year following their success.
Northampton-born Richard has been a chef for 27 years. He learned his skills at Northampton College and honed his talents at various establishments including at what is now the Hilton Hotel in Northampton, the Mercure Parkside Hotel in Milton Keynes, Rushton Hall Hotel near Kettering, Hendon Hall Hotel in North London, where he gained 2 AA Rosettes, and Flitwick Manor in Bedfordshire under the watchful eye of Duncan Poyser.
Since arriving at Fawsley Hall, Richard has created a modern British menu with classical overtones using fresh, locally sourced and seasonal produce wherever possible.
Richard and his wife, Sarah, who is in charge of Sunday afternoon teas at the hotel, have two young sons.
Other facilities at Fawsley Hall feature:
* 60 bedrooms
* Spa
* Pool
* 29-seat cinema
* Conference, meeting and team building venue
* Wedding venue
* Private dining
* Extensive grounds
For more information contact Fawsley Hall Hotel and Spa, Fawsley, near Daventry, NN11 3BA.